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If you have a lot of bonsai, you may feel like you’re doing assembly line work at certain times of the year. Summer, for those who have a number of black pines, is one of those times.
When I have a lot of repetitive work, often a line of trees against the shop wall, start at one end and work to the end of the line.
trees require more developed most of the time, but they are very well cleaned. Younger trees are fast, but the lack of character. And then there are the tweens -. Trees are beginning to take the form of bonsai are made
I worked on these trees after finishing the older and younger. At this stage they are still trying to grow vigorously and I’m trying to stop them. After cutting, the trees give less time to develop summer outbreaks effectively puts on the brakes a little.
After cutting, the future of these trees starts to become clear. Some primary branches have their beginnings, the front is fixed, and escape branches are reduced or eliminated.
Each of the trees years ahead are 12 and a half old. They are in various stages of development, more or less organized from less developed to more developed. Larger trees, particularly the one at the end, they are a little older, but that’s what is so funny about using different development techniques for the same batch of trees. By using larger containers on the road and feed more, the trees of the same age can take very different qualities.
This is the first out of the gates.
Black Pine – 12-1 / 2 years
By this tree had planned an experiment. For outbreaks on the right side of the tree, no pieces were left for decandling (see Decandling Techniques for more information on “heels”). Here is the tree after removing the buds on the right side.
After decandling the right side – without the pieces left behind
I should note that Eric Schrader made the cut here since I have a lot of trees get through this year. The shot below shows the tree after removing the buds on the left side -. intact
After decandling the left side of the tree and leaving pieces
thinning Rama and needle pulling followed, and the branch of sacrifice was cut back and decandled. It was at this point that might start to get an idea of this tree is to become.
After trimming, decandling and pulls the needle
Although the trunk has reached the desired thickness, I decided to keep the branch exhaust heal a wound left by a previous branch exhaust. I hope to remove it sometime within the next year.
Here they are before and after shots of several more trees than go through the same process.
pine Black before decandling and cut
After thinning and decandling the lower branches – the branch exhaust remain in place for now
the following pine trunk has reached the desired thickness and large wounds are mostly healed. I removed most of the sacrificial branch and remove the rest in the fall.
Why not remove all at once? Because the branch is strong, I hope a lot of new shoots, which appear cut. These will be too strong to use in the final design. By allowing these shoots emerge less in the field of sacrifice, I can divert excess energy out of the branches that I want to keep.
pine Black before decandling
After decandling and cut
As is often the case with decandling, I find it easy to get in and remove all spring buds. What I find difficult is to determine which branches not to decandle.
The small pine then begins to resemble a bonsai shohin. Decandling is easy to see after the upper body needs to thicken before the final branch development can begin, but it is not at all clear picture before.
By decandling the side and leaving the apical shoot branches can only accelerate the development of the upper body while slowing down the branches i want to go small.
decandling After all but the apical buds
The last tree in this group was trained in the exposed root style. Rebar is used to raise the upper trunk. The goal for the tree at this stage is to increase the density of offices so decandled spring growth in all branches.
pine Black before decandling
And like another row pine is ready for the rest of the summer.
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