Techniques for having a healthy bonsai – Make a beautiful and healthy bonsai tree, requires a commitment to long-term care and some basic fundamental techniques related to irrigation and light, the form of pruning, fertilization and bottling – at the bottom, small tips to get your bonsai can live for many years.
The place where you put the bonsai must meet three important factors:
Easy access and space to manage the daily care;
It should allow a point of view in favor of bonsai;
Contain the ideal weather conditions – not directly in the sun, have appropriate levels of temperature and humidity, and allow the circulation of fresh air.
Tip: If you see drooping branches, more fragile or discoloration of the tree, bonsai should change the site.
This is one of the most important in maintaining healthy bonsai techniques. If the tree is not pruned regularly, it will grow to its normal size and the art of bonsai, this is not the goal. Chosen the “best side” of bonsai should:
Cut broken branches or sick, as well as those that cross or are born at the bottom of the trunk, interfering with the natural setting of bonsai.
To improve the shape of the tree and enhance the thickness of your pantry, you can trim the branches using the scissors or hand. Always cut the stem above the leaves and never in the middle because they will dry and ugly. Cut all shoots beyond the profile of the tree, thus creating a more compact and attractive way.
If chipping by hand, will enable the development of new leaves in the same stem, but below. In addition to giving a more adult look at bonsai, will give the canopy a good consistency. Moreover, this technique uses only the upper branches so that they do not become too heavy.
Some species of bonsai allow the total removal of the leaves in the summer time, which allows the appearance of new leaves – bright and smaller – in the autumn. These should be cut badly arise, so that new leaves have time to harden before the arrival of autumn.
Tip: The young leaves should be removed during the spring and summer, but the branches and the trunk should only be pruned in the autumn and then maintained throughout the winter.
When resorting to the technique Aramar, do not forget that:
The wire should be closely monitored to avoid cutting the trunk and / or branches.
The coniferous trees (pines, Juniper, Cypress …) must be latticework in winter, keeping the wire for approximately one year.
Deciduous trees (apple, orange, lemon …) should be latticework in the summer, keeping the wire about three months, i.e. until autumn.
Once removed the wire, make sure the tree does not return to the starting position. If this happens, you can re-use the same technique in the following year.
Tip: If there are marks of the wire in the tree, you can paint them to seal cuts.
Like any plant, bonsai also needs sun and airing abroad to ensure healthy growth. The exposure time varies depending on the species:
The bonsais that require a lot of sun (tropical species, for example) should be kept outside during the warm months, especially if you do not have a suitable location, ie, with bright, indoors.
Secondly, there bonsai require little light. In these cases, prefer shaded places.
If you cannot guarantee a few hours of direct sun, ensure that the location where the bonsai has at least some artificial lighting.
Bonsai inner need about five hours every day indirect light. Can and must take him to the outside, but never let the direct sunlight, especially in peak hours.
Tip: In summer, it is ideal to enjoy the sun in the morning (until 11:00) and afternoon (starting at 16:00). In winter, enjoy full sun, if any.
Fertilizer and insecticides
Although not essential, a fertilizer can be used to feed the bonsai. Opt for solid fertilizer (powder, granules or blocks) rather than liquids because they allow controlling the absorption and when it is necessary to re-fertilize.
Like any other plant, bonsai also is subject to pests and diseases. To avoid them, spray the bonsai with an insecticide / fungicide appropriate, but only when the leaves are fully open or button.
Tip: Do not put fertilizer in bonsai that is dry or sick. Before feeding bonsai, this has to be healthy.
Cut the roots
The cutting of roots should be done annually to allow for the formation of new roots, the tree will grow bigger and better. Clean the roots with an appropriate hook, always avoiding those that lie on the surface. Once clean and “stretched” to shorten the roots in about one third.
Tip: This operation should be performed in the spring, but if you are more resistant plants, can trim the roots between the middle and the end of winter.
Renew the potting
The process to renew the potting should be done every two years, to give more space to the bonsai to grow. Always use the same pot, take to shorten the roots and replace the earth completely.
Tip: To give some nutrients to the bonsai, you can mix a little fertilizer in the new land or put damp moss on it.
Watering is perhaps the most important aspect when it comes to maintaining a healthy bonsai. Already the Japanese said that a beginner can learn in a few days, how to prune a bonsai, however, can take a lifetime to perfect the technique of watering.
The leading cause of death of a bonsai is the lack of water. Check your daily moisture levels, using a toothpick or small stick. If this does not leave wet, just damp, you need to water your bonsai.
In spring, summer and fall, should water your bonsai every day; in winter, watering is reduced, but it is essential to maintain the moist bonsai.
Always keep the same watering schedule.
Rainwater is ideal for watering bonsai (or any other plant) but, failing that, may well use tap water.
You should water the soil well. Thus, the drain, the water helps to remove deposits that may have accumulated in the bottom of the pot.
Do not forget to water the rest of the bonsai. Must keep all parts of wet tree (trunk, branches, and leaves) to prevent the accumulation of rubbish and dust in its pores. However, if the bonsai have flowers, avoid contact of water therewith.
Tip: The best time to water your bonsai is in the late afternoon, after the sun had set, because then the land remains wet during the night. If watering in the morning or during the day, the ground can dry quickly and drops remaining on the leaves can burn them.