bonsai tree care

Repotting bonsai trident maple ago

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In several years, I published a series on how to repot bonsai. For those who missed the first time, here is an edited version of the series in a single post version. Enjoy!

How to remove a bonsai tree pot

Before a bonsai can be moved into a new pot, it must be removed from its current pot. Here is a trident maple bonsai before transplanting.

Root-on-wood trident maple

The first step is to remove all the cables coming from the bottom of the pot. Usually I start with mooring cables and then remove the clips that hold the screen in place drainage.

The moorings cut

Cut the clips

‘m always sure to remove all cables as one remaining cable can help a tree cling to its pot with surprising tenacity. Once the cables are removed, I put the pot down and out of the sickle.

removed cable – ready for the next step

Using a small sickle or a knife lawn, which carve a narrow channel between the root ball and sides pot. This is the most dangerous part of the process. While one hand holds the pot in place, the other works quickly with a sharp instrument. Watch your fingers!

Remove the root ball from the sides of the pot with a sickle

I found that a movement of gentle scraping works better than shaking or vigorous movements form saw. How scraping the patient depends on the tree and pot. Since the idea is to disturb the roots as little as possible at this point, it is important not to scrape more than necessary. That said, trying to remove a tree before the roots are free can damage the roots.

For square, rectangular, oval pots, work on the two short sides of the pan and a large side. Trees usually release of round pots after about half the diameter is deleted. In all cases, scraping up the bottom of the pot. Because the roots tend to turn in the bottom, without reaching this mass may prevent the tree from falling out.

The cleared ground

Once the soil has been clarified to the bottom, it’s time to remove the tree from the pot.

This step requires care. Try to keep the pot in the workspace, while leaning the tree away from the pot by raising the end of the root ball that has been cleaned with the sickle. Hazards in this step include crushing and stirring pots branches on the ground.

Tilting the root ball away from the pot

While this procedure may seem a bit formal, the idea is to avoid common mistakes.

Preparation Pot

The next step is to prepare the pot in which bonsai is planted. This year I’m trident maple transplant back into the same pot. I usually go out of my way to make a change when transplant, but OK to reuse the same pot as well.

is best to prepare the new pot before working on the roots. Preparation involves scrubbing the pot, covering the drainage holes in the screen, and wiring of the pot.

pot Grimy

I like to use a natural bristle brush, but plastic brushes work well too. What is important is the degree to which it is cleaned.

can not overstate the importance of this next bit: not too enthusiastic in their scrubbing! It is easy to remove both dirt and patina during displacement, although the goal is to remove the dirt while preserving the patina.

scrubbed away residues in soil

How much to scrub? A good way to start is to scrub lightly. This will eliminate most of the bark or loose soil clinging to the pots. Beyond that, proceed with caution. Some white hard waste water is acceptable, too much is not. Green accumulation is not usually appropriate. If you ever have any questions about cleaning a specific pot, do not hesitate to take someone you trust for advice. Not worth the risk and can save you some effort.

Once the pot is relatively clean, it’s time to cover the drainage holes. The process is simple once you know how. Measuring a length of wire about four times the diameter of the drain hole. Bend the wire into a “Z” with hands and curved end with pliers. From there, bending over the ends so they only fit into the drainage holes. A good fit will prevent the screen to move around. This helps keep the floor and bugs.

Measuring wire clip

From a clip

Checking clip size

a complete “clip”

After the screen is in place, measure the wire mooring. For rectangular and oval pots, get the right cable length measuring tie two long sides and one short side of the pot as a guide. Different shapes and arrangements of drainage holes require adjustments. Getting the correct length becomes easier with practice.

Read also:   Chojubai Notes: Part I

Measurement mooring wire

There are a number of techniques to ensure bonsai trees in pots. Each method involves a certain arrangement of the mooring cables. For the method to be used with this trident maple, which organize cables as follows:

From below

from above

once the cables are in place, I lean out of the way and put the pot aside until ready to set the tree.

Why bother with wires at all? It is a reflection of the difference between a nursery trees and bonsai. Bonsai typically require more care. The celebration of the roots in place as they grow in their new environment minimizes the damage that can result from jostling around a tree. It keeps expensive trees blowing out of their pots and tippy trees falling. It is a sign that you really care about the welfare of our trees.

entrench work

Great job requires a bonsai tree health, and a large tree health begins with the roots.

Cut too many roots can weaken or kill a tree – not cut enough can lead to root rot or dieback and prevent good surface roots development. When done well, however, bonsai transplant can invigorate and give them the strength to recover from more intensive design techniques.

trident maple is better replanted in late winter or early spring. And while most of the deciduous trees are typically replanted before the sheet out, tridents can be replanted, as long as the new leaves are reddish. Repotting so late a tree can slow down a bit, but if you are in good health, the pace is not lost.

Root-work begins, in this case, with the bottom of the root ball. After removing the tree from the pot, I can see that the roots are loose, where he spent the sickle, but nice and compact on the other side. Tilting the tree in the intact side can protect the root ball while working at the base.

cepellón – where he spent the sickle

root ball – the side without touching

I am pretty demanding with the tools I use when I transplant. I found that the bottom is perfect rake to comb the roots at the bottom of the root ball. I work downtown and drag the rake out while remaining parallel to the base of the tree.

Raking the base of the root ball

I try to keep as flat as possible basis when working to avoid causing air bubbles when I put the tree in the boat. Holding the rake angle or working for long in one area can quickly create pockets, and in some cases, can weaken the entire root ball.

Working in small trees planted in good soil is a fun job

roots flush with the ground can make it difficult for roots to grow in new cut ground. To leave some root protruding from the root ball when short, I can help the roots are integrated into the new soil.

Root-work finished at the bottom of the root ball

Once the base is made, I can set the tree and work on the top and the sides of the roots. bent tip pliers are great for this. I’m careful, however, not to carry out the tweezers too high when I work. Holding forceps at steep angles engageable roots, making snap or tear. With holding forceps at a lower angle, I can help tips slip over the roots without damaging them.

technique incorrect tweezers Best technique (angle too high)

clamp (right angle)

you may have noticed that the soil is darker near the surface of the roots. That is evidence of organic fertilizer use – cotton seed meal, in this case. To improve drainage, to scrape as much of it as possible. When I finished, I cut the roots just beyond where out of the ground.

Root-work completed

Securing the tree in the pot

Once the tree and pot are ready, is the time to put them together. For starters, the pot a drainage layer of pumice sets. If the boat were much thinner and warmer weather you can skip this step, but I found my trident maples do well with a drainage layer of pumice.

drainage layer of pumice

After spreading of the drainage layer, I add my bonsai mixed deciduous – mostly akadama with pumice, lava and charcoal. I usually form a mound in the center of the pot when I pour in the mixture to help prevent the formation of air pockets when the tree is set. If the base of the root ball is concave, this is important.

Bonsai mound

Here comes one of the most important parts of the whole process – tree trimming. Although not a technical maneuver, which requires care to ensure that the tree ends up in the right place. After the tree nailed in place, check the location of the tree, the height of the root ball, the inclination of the tree and the front. Make adjustments, if necessary, before setting the tree in place with wire.

Read also:   Notes: Part 4 Chojubai Pots for Chojubai

Set Tree

There are many ways to ensure a bonsai in a pot. The aim is to prevent the tree from moving to avoid damaging the new roots.

Before attaching the first two cables together, I add a “tail” -. A piece of wire that will help make my final connection, as I work my way around the root ball

Adding a “tail”

Then pull the first cable to a location above the point where the second wire comes through the drain hole. Hand make some turns and continue around the tree until it is time to connect the cable end “tail” I attached to the first wire. This final connection requires pliers.

Fixing Tree

A subtle but important trick with pliers: throw, then twist. If you have replanted in Boon, who has heard the phrase before. The idea is to pull the wires that are taught, then release a little pressure while doing spinning. Doing this helps to avoid breaking the cable.

Proper technique Pliers: pull

then rotate

When done right using pliers to tighten the end connecting all other cables. It is a quick and effective way to ensure a tree.

Tree insured

Before adding more soil, to cut extraneous threads.

finishing touches

The hardest part is over. The next step is to add more land to the pot.

Pour a tablespoon ground

When the new soil on the roots work, sticks are useful. Usually jab lightly on the floor with one hand while holding the pot and the soil in place with the other. Skip this step can result in air bubbles that make it difficult for the roots to take hold.

is fun, at this stage, to move the sticks on. Wiggling really works the soil in place and is especially effective in the pockets between the large roots or cavities beneath the trunk. Too much bobbing, however, is counterproductive. Unless there is a big gap to fill, does not take much.

Working the soil between the roots with chopsticks.

Before getting a final level of the amount of potting soil, one careful protuberance can fix things up a bit. By doing this, I have very carefully the tree and pot in place with one hand while hitting – just once or twice – with the other. blows without care can alter the soil and cause a do-over. If the soil is drastically reduced, it is a sign that did not use enough sticks to work the soil in place.

Hitting the jackpot

A small brush can help get the soil to the proper level. Brush technique: holding the brush at a high angle makes it difficult to level the soil surface and can easily get the additional floors. Holding him close parallel to the surface of the strip of land larger soil particles out of the mix and makes for a good level.

Leveling the potting soil – improper brush technique

Proper brush technique – the brush is almost parallel with the ground surface

a palette can make the surface clean and tidy. I have seen long wings and short wings, custom palettes and mass production. I have two, but rarely use. I like caressing the surface of the floor with your hands instead. It works almost as well and is much faster.

tamping the soil with a trowel

tamping the soil with your fingers

As soon as this is done to go out and water the tree. The rule about watering until the water runs clear is sound. Dust particles can be washed over the land, the better the soil is exhausted. It is at this point that I measure the effectiveness of work. If drainage is poor after transplanting, I have to start over.

Watering the tree

The tree is now ready for next year.

Full Repotting

This covers many of the basics of transplanting. But as with so many bonsai techniques, there is much more to say on the subject. If you still have questions about how and when to replant, do not hesitate to ask someone with experience in growing bonsai in your area – it will be worth

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