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There are many ways of bonsai decandle red and black pine. I do not think that some techniques are better or worse than others as I have seen many techniques used with great success by professionals and amateurs alike. Rather, each technique has its advantages and disadvantages. I tend to use several approaches decandling station during any given depending on the needs of the tree and my time available.
A simple distinction between technical decandling can be made based on the number of days required to complete the removal of spring buds in a given season. The most effective approach is to eliminate all the candles on a given day. This approach makes more sense when time is limited. traveling professionals, for example, often take this approach when return visits to the home of a client are not practical.
The elimination of all spring buds of a tree on a summer day shoot gives an equal amount of time to develop. Thus, the act of removing the growth base recently spring to balance the strong and weak points of the tree. The two most common ways to balance the force when removing all spring buds of a tree on a given day are pulling needle and leaving bits techniques. For these techniques to work properly, it is necessary to identify the strong and weak areas of the tree.
In general, the upper branches are stronger than the lower branches, and foreign branches are stronger than the inner branches, but the most obvious indicator of force is the size of the spring session.
small, medium and large outbreaks
Reducing the force in the strongest areas can help balance the general vigor of the tree. By taking the approach needle plucking, this means that we fewer needles in strong areas and weak areas needles.
The weakest areas – shoot with 1-3 pairs of needles -., is often left alone
The approach is similar heel. Let the longest pieces in strengths and shorter pieces in weak areas.
see “techniques for controlling force” for details.
In the preparation of a pine for the exhibit, I often go decandle the tree over a period of several weeks, removing groups of spring buds every 10-14 days. We begin with the elimination of the weakest buds to give summer outbreaks in these branches longer to develop. After splitting a tree in groups of force relative, we can decandle as follows:
In practice, this might look like the following.
Zero Day – before decandling
Zero Day – after removing small outbreaks
Day 10 – after removal of outbreaks medium
Day 20 – after removal of large outbreaks
Decandling can become interesting when we started combining techniques. For example, after removing all spring buds Pine above, I pulled the needles of the strongest areas to further reduce its force.
Day 20 – after pulling needles
As an alternative to needles traction that could have left the pieces on strong areas. Or it could have combined all three approaches. In short, we can combine any number of approaches to decandling bonsai red and black pine.
Given the number of options that this leaves us with, can be difficult to know where to start. Experience is our best guide here. But hiring a professional to work on our bonsai trees or take our workshop with an experienced teacher is not always an option, we can be browsing this fixed value. Which is right. Simply starting with a best estimate and learn from the results is a great way to learn how our trees respond to decandling. I will provide a starting point for this approach next week.
This article was originally published on bonsaitonight.com