Last year I wrote a post about fertilization, fertilization refine this year! I wanted to expand on that and offer a few notes, because, after all, this is a new year for the related manure issues-
Blogging is really a little course prostrate, because we make a simple statement as if it were foreign to a million variables. For example, when I say ‘fertilize’ I suppose we are using a fertilizer that has all macronutrients 6 Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (C), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur ( S), that if I do not say that, or some other variable that are taking and I am not, we are nowhere. And we’re better if we’re somewhere. At least.
There are very few cases in bonsai, training or early maintenance, which do not want a fertilizer with at least all 6 macronutrients. (Ie without magnesium your tree can not create chlorophyll, without chlorophyll idea that their food plant can create by itself is a kind of unrelated to reality, and therefore, a branch bending is cosmically stupid -)
Ok, covered that variable.
Some comments fertilization for this 2014 season:
Many of the problems that could leaves, tips of needles, leaves of gold that are too dark green, See-burned, etc.-they are often basic health problems that have nothing to do with fertilization. Just to give that last, very dark green leaves is an indication of a bonsai you are not getting enough sun.
There is rarely a need to strike a tree with fertilizer twice as indications suggest. More than enough is not better in the world of plant nutrition.
Normally, the flowering trees are fertilized for the first time after flowering. But this is another general statement. Some plants are almost perpetual bloomers, such as quince’ve talked a lot here, Chojubai, and those who should be fertilized for the first time when they are growing sprouts in the spring although it could still be in bloom.
If fertilize flowers accents with random or broadcast is possible to decrease the flowering of some. Fertilize them as their trees, when they finish blooming, not before.
If fertilize an old pine tree with a too-steep, old bark, for example, you can throw the old bark and begin to look young. Many plants are perennial in ways that can not be, because they can be restored to youth, literally.
If the faster crust will be developed under fertilize a sapling starting to look older than it is … on one hand. But it can take much longer to reach the other objectives we seek in bonsai, too, like logs, etc. substantial
obtains water and soil test! Fertilisation will be different for different pH ranges. For example, recent research suggests that phosphorus (P) from bone meal is only available to plants in soils with a pH below 7.0. In fact, for most bonsai, if you can get about 6.5 pH, most of the problems of plant nutrition are minimized greatly.
Finally, fertilization is much less important than optimizing large: Sun and water If we optimize large, we are not using fertilizers like a magic wand .. is not one. It is a distant second booster stage in our small rockets.
Still not yawning? Well, I know it’s not a matter of jazz. The bonsai world has more interesting for her parts, and can be quite romantic, too. Hybridizing with flowers, for example, it is a surefire way to make at least a few people blush. But hopefully you’re yawning more selfishly now on fertilization.
Fertilisation incredibly well is only for very interesting people. Joining the evil idiots! We are a band of organic fertilizers rebels called the Secret Society smelly, and we are not growing very fast. Ironically.
This article was originally published on http://crataegus.com/2014/05/15/how-not-to-fertilize/