bonsai tree care





Care of the Acer palmatum, Japanese maple bonsai



Care of the Acer palmatum, Japanese maple bonsai – Japanese maple – Acer palmatum

Japanese maple bonsaiJapanese maple bonsai

Japanese maple bonsai

Japanese maple bonsai ; Description

Known in Japan Yama-momiji, which literally means mountain maple. It’s originally from Japan and China. There are a lot of varieties (cultivars) of the Japanese maple. Differences can be found in the color of the leaves, the color of the trunk and branches, bark type, growth habit and shape. All species have, to my knowledge notched palm-like (hence the name palmatum) leaves. Usually, with five or more lobes, depending on the type and the leaf is deeply incised with serrated edges.

Some well-known cultivars are Seigen, Deshojo, Chisio, Arakawa (literal translation: rough bark), Kiyohime (a dwarf variety). The Japanese maple is one of the most popular species used for bonsai, and has much to me to do with the spectacular discoloration of the leaf per season. Most species are fairly hardy, and under normal circumstances or to our climate. Trees that late in the year have been edited, place however you still better what sheltered in a cold greenhouse.

Japanese maple bonsai ; Repotting

Follow in the spring, just before the sprouting of the standard procedure for repotting. Knobs, if soil mix is pure akadama appropriate. At any rate a well-draining substrate. Record up to 1/3 to 1/2 of the root mass away. Depending on the phase repot every 2 to 5 years.

Stand

Penumbra is usually recommended because of rapid combustion of the leaf. However, this would still be rather to the combination of too much sun, wind, and drying. Most preferably, they receive light filtered by the leaves of a larger deciduous tree. Especially the red leaved species can get brown leaf edges by combustion in full sun. Shortly after the leak of the leaves, they are susceptible to late frost and a somewhat sheltered site is therefore recommended. So can some more sun than imagined, but quite a bit sheltered places. Combustion of the bark is like a beech a real possibility. Pay particular attention to drying winds in winter; you can lose this finer branching. Is the use of shadow nets during the hottest summer days is recommended. Also ensure good ventilation under the pot. And around Also watch out for early sprouting of the buds, if they in winter which are too hot.

Watering

Maples liked their moisture, and also like cooler roots. Still, watch out for root rot, do certainly not too much water. Try rather to maintain moderate humidity.

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Nutrition

From following termination of the buttons until the autumn, organic fertilizer. (Biogold, Abrakas, fish emulsion). I have often read that you embed in your best interval fertilization during midsummer area, and this might have something to do with the development of finer branching. From late summer to use nitrogen-poor diet, to harden the auctions for the winter.
Acer’s responding well. Also on foliar I use OE foliar Sumo.

Techniques

You can apply on Acer’s good leaf pruning, with the aim of finer branching of the leaf. And reduction Do this only on healthy specimens. Using a sharp blade pruner you remove the leaves, but it does leave the stem of the blade. This does not damage the starter, the hormones are, and may develop a button. New growth usually appears within two or three weeks. You can a maple leaf pruning whole or in part, in partial leaf pruning you remove the large leaves. In this way, the tree is less susceptible to stress problems than in whole leaf pruning. You can also leaf through selective pruning, dividing the power of the tree to weaker areas, or areas where much work on the branch structure. Is By often prune the large leaves during the season you create more light and air into the tree. This you promote budding in the tree. When you apply for this and leaf pruning, have a positive effect on prolonging the beautiful colors in the fall. Strong healthy trees can tolerate some leaf pruning twice a year. Only leaf pruning too late in the season, the tree pulls in autumn sugars from the leaves back in support of hardening of the buttons. Leaf pruning can apply successively two years, the third year you let the tree recover much. You can during sprouting of leaves in spring maples ‘pinching’, also called tar tweezers. The growth tip hereby cut out the newly opened button. The purpose of forceps tars is to obtain a fine branching in the final stage of the tree. Pinching you do during the sprouting of buds as early as possible. This means that you are multi-day process because not all buttons come true simultaneously. When you are actively engaged in the tree to force it, fine branching, this means that you need in combination with leaf pruning, tweezers tars regular periods during the season.

Read also:   How to care for a bonsai

Japanese maple bonsai ; Pruning and wiring

Japanese maple is known for ‘bleeding’ of pruning wounds due to its high sap pressure. Pruning does so best in August, there is still plenty of time for the tree to which the new wound healing.

Tip:

keep the tree fairly dry when you prune, this would be the ‘bleeding’ reduce. Also take care of the pruning wounds made good use wound pasta. Pruning in the spring, when the tree start you best be omitted because of this heavy ‘bleeding’. The “bleeding” can persist for days. Wiring is best done with aluminum wire; it is less sensitive to heat / cold conduction to the branches. Best time to wire June (even just after leaf pruning when the branching is more visible). Pay attention to the finer branching, it is very fragile! Here too you first let the tree drier because the branches then become more flexible. For a complete wiring your best give the tree a while a sheltered site so that it can obtain some of the surgery.

Diseases

Acer’s may be susceptible to leaf spot diseases, powdery mildew, aphids, coral spot disease, and Verticillium. In the leaves of the sycamore maple develops in late summer often ink spot disease caused by the fungus Rhytisma acerinum. In the early stages of this infection develop, as the name suggests, purple to black ink spots. Later, the thickened tissue of the fungus, to finally dewater in late autumn and forms a thick fabric appearance. After the winter break it open and develops the fruit body, after sporulation occurs. A winter treatment with a solution of jin-seal and water during the rest period occurs much mischief. Provide adequate ventilation around the trees to give fungi as little chance as possible. Against insect pests, there are all sorts of remedies available

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Care of the Acer palmatum, Japanese maple bonsai

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