bonsai tree care





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For everything I’ve written about the care of pine, I have not said much about clipping. Trim can be tricky, as there are many reasons to remove or not remove branches in certain situations. Different teachers address the issue differently, and often multiple approaches can be successful.

Ignoring any complexity, for the moment, I’ll start with the most basic principles – reduced to two buds. After decandling, pines can produce any number of outbreaks of summer. If left unchecked, these groups of branches can cause inflammation and make the basic development of the challenging pad. The easiest way to pad development approach is to leave no more than two buds at the end of each branch. Although the pictures below show the red pine buds, the technique is applied equally to the black pines.

When we meet more than two buds at the end of a branch, something has to happen. What triggers to cut? It depends. launch position and vigor are the most common criteria used to make a selection. When all the buds on a branch have given similar force tending to my selection based on the shooting direction. In the photo below, an outbreak grows, the other two buds grow on the sides. In this case, I will start the central shoot.

Cutback - before

Three outbreaks equal vigor

Cutback - after

After removing the center shoot

up outbreaks growing often have much more vigor than the lateral buds or looking down. For this reason, I often start the outbreak looking upward.

The opposite is also true – looking down outbreaks tend to have less effect. As the two side shoots in the picture below have the same force, the choice is simple – start the shoot down

Read also:   Perfecting a black pine

Cutback - before

Shot down will continue to get weaker as. than previous outbreaks will shade out

Cutback - after

After removing the shooting down

sometimes outbreaks do not line up the way I like. In the photo below, the upstream and downstream coating outbreaks are relatively strong, but the weak side shoot. In this case, I will start the weak side shoot to maintain the same vigor among the remaining outbreaks.

Cutback - before

The lateral bud is weak

Cutback - after

After removing the lateral bud

Over time , filming growing up tend to grow stronger than the shoot down. I can avoid this by wiring the branch and turning until the buds are side by side.

Occasionally I have seen strong strong shoots growing downward. As the two lateral branches are of equal force, I removed the umpire.

Cutback - before

Strong shoot looking down

Cutback - after

side shoots have the same effect

In small groups equal vigor shoots, I often start the outbreak that leaves more space between the remaining shoots, I do not know that any selection in these cases is preferable to any other.

Cutback - before

Three small outbreaks

Cutback - after

After cutting two

Here is a case of fun – very strong vertical shoots and relatively weak side shoots. What to keep?

Cutback - before

vertical shoots are strong, lateral buds are weak

If this branch was near the apex or in an equally vigorous area, I would like to decrease force of the branch and leave the smaller outbreaks. If the branch was in a weak area, I would like to keep the strongest sprouts. As this branch was at the top of the tree, I removed the strongest shoots.

Read also:   A reworked Shore Pine -

Cutback - after

The top shoots go

Cutback - after

lateral buds remain well balanced

And what about with spirals of many outbreaks? Easy, cut his two favorites.

Cutback - before

Many outbreaks

Cutback - after

After the reduction to two

This article was originally published on bonsaitonight.com


basics pine trim

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